Being a Saigon Bánh Mì?

“What makes a bánh mì a bánh mì?”

Clearly this is one of the great questions of our time. Well, at least for those of us who eat, love, and write about street food in Saigon, and perhaps even for those who enjoy Vietnamese food anywhere around the world.

Bánh mì in Vietnam, in its most basic sense, of course, means bread. More exactly, a roll made of wheat flour, as introduced by the French during their hundred-plus-years of colonial rule of Vietnam. In Vietnamese, bánh means “bread”, mì means “wheat”.

With its thin crispy exterior crust and its light airy interior, the bánh mì roll is a staple of modern-day Vietnam having been integrated into many different Vietnamese breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes.

When spread with Smiling Cow cheese, bánh mì becomes a breakfast cheese sandwich enjoyed by locals and tourists alike.

When served with bò kho, it becomes an essential side for dipping into the sauce of that delicious Vietnamese stew.

When served with bò bít tết, bánh mì bread becomes either the crispy package for a beef sandwich or the dipping tool to soak up the sizzling steak juices.

In the current context, however, bánh mì refers specifically to the classic Vietnamese sandwich that uses that unique roll to house some specific ingredients.

One must seriously consider the contents to be placed inside that sliced roll. Certainly, one could insert sauerkraut, peanut butter, creamed lobster, or lettuce and tomatoes inside that crispy roll. But, could each of those then be referred to, marketed or judged as a classic Vietnamese bánh mì? Surely not.

The ingredients then are crucial not only to the enjoyment of this Vietnamese sandwich, but to the very essence of it “being a bánh mì“.

What contents then belong inside the bánh mì roll to properly comprise the definitive classic Vietnamese bánh mì?

Essential ingredients:

• First, proper spreads must be used. These spreads take two forms. A mayonnaise/butter/oil spread. And a Vietnamese pate’ spread, blended from pork meat, pork liver, pork fat, eggs and everything rich and creamy. One or both of these must be spread on the inside of the bánh mì roll. Now, of course, they can be declined by the eater. But, they must be offered as an option. A sandwich made without the option of pate’ and/or a mayo spread cannot be properly considered a Vietnamese bánh mì.
• Secondly, one or more, sliced processed meats (cold cuts) must be included on the sandwich. A whole variety of processed hams, pork, head cheese, chả, and sausages may be used. If the meat has not been processed and sliced, however, it might be a delicious fried chicken breast or bbq pulled-pork sandwich, but again, it could not be considered a classic Vietnamese bánh mì.
• Thirdly, pickled vegetables (carrots and daikon) must be placed inside the roll, atop the processed meats. Without these sour and sweet, typically julienned vegetables, a bánh mì does not exist.
• Finally, additional and common optional ingredients which are not critical to the existence or non-existence of the bánh mì, include hot chilies, squirts of soy and/or chili sauce, sprigs of cilantro, fried eggs, and slices of cucumber.

Bánh Mì Hòa Mã

So, with that foundation, let us continue with my reflections on our recent “bánh mì” experience at Bánh Mì Hòa Mã.

I have long considered Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa to serve the best bánh mì in Saigon. But, with an open mind and a growling tummy, I’m always anxious to test that position.

Bánh Mì Hòa Mã was recently suggested by a friend of Hai and mine as one of Saigon’s top bánh mì vendors.  So, time to check it out.   Jumping on our motorbike, we went to work!

“Confusion” is the first word that comes to mind about our experience at Bánh Mì Hòa Mã.

“Confusion” as in, “Was this or was this not a classic Vietnamese bánh mì?”

“Confusion” as in “with fusion” (East-Meets-West kind of fusion).

Let me explain.

First, yes, all the required bánh mì ingredients were present.

There were the sliced “processed” meats. Chả lua (processed pork), chả quế (processed pork with cinnamon), and chả bò (processed beef). [More than you ever wanted to know about how chả is made here].  There were also slices of processed ham (Was this the same pork roll that I recall from my New Jersey childhood?)

BUT, one problem!  The meats were all deep-fried! And all were presented separately from the bánh mì roll.  And all served atop a fried egg on a hot iron plate!?

And, yes, there was the requisite pate’ and mayonnnaise, and pickled vegetables – daikon, carrots and cucumber. BUT, these were presented in small bowls separately from the bánh mì roll.

And then there was the deep-fried pate’, the fried onions, and the small fried sausage.

Absolutely, a generous serving of yummy delectable fried foods. But, confusing!

Was this a classic Vietnamese bánh mì sandwich?  With essence of New Jersey pork roll. The look of a sizzling bít tết breakfast. And an American-style fried egg with onions. All the components of a classic bánh mì sandwich, but all fried or deep-fried and not on a roll!? What was all this!?

Conclusion

Bánh Mì Hòa Mã.  A delicious breakfast, YES. Try it for sure. You’ll love it!

BUT, a classic Vietnamses bánh mì sandwich that could appropriately be judged against other bánh mì sandwiches in town? I THINK NOT!

Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa remains our favorite classic Vietnamese bánh mì in Saigon.

Advice

When you visit Bánh Mì Hòa Mã,

1. Order thập cẩm (a bit of everything). Why suffer through difficult choices?
2. Enjoy your breakfast in 2 stages. First, sample the distinct flavors of each of the ingredients, using 1/2 of the crunchy baguette to dip into the pate’ and mayo spreads. Then, use the remaining 1/2 baguette to assemble all of the remaining ingredients into a more traditional Vietnamese bánh mì sandwich . A true fusion experience, both in substance and in form.
3. Sit at a table in the alley far off Cao Thang Street. This will position you as far from the piercing noise of the welding shop across the alley as possible (and make your eating experience that much more enjoyable.)

A good value at just a bit above our usual breakfast cost – 98,000 vnd ($5 USD) for Hai and I to enjoy our two breakfast servings with two ice teas.

OPEN: 6:00 am til noon

Bánh Mì Hòa Mã
53 Cao Thang
District 3